Camino Portugues (Senda Litoral)

May 22, 2019 16.25km completed - 245km  to go       Route Map We have completed our first day, covering 16.25km in perfec t walking conditions - hazy sunshine and a light sea breeze. En route we met many other pilgrims from various parts of the world, including a woman from Kilmacolm, about eight miles from where I was born. She left Scotland about the same time as I did and has spent her life on Vancouver Island. We are in a lovely albergue in Vila Cha but when we arrived there was only one lower bunk left. The hospitalero took pity on us and opened up a second dormitory and we are in here on our own - so far. We are planning an even shorter day tomorrow but then the pressure will increase as have to do 262km in 15 days. In 2011 we did it in 12 days over a slightly different route. Typical section of boardwalk The albergue at Vila Cha

May 23, 2019 28km completed - 234km to go    Route Map As stages go on the Camino, just under 12km is a leisurely stroll and we treated it like that, taking some five hours to reach the albergue in Póvoa de Varzim. We arrived at 12:45. We didn't see very much of the sun, which again made for pleasant walking conditions. I had no sooner posted yesterday's update before two German peregrinas joined us in our dormitory. By the time we were going to sleep, ten of the twelve bunks were taken and there were at least six people sleeping in the outer dormitory. We visited the nearby bar in the afternoon and paid €1:90 for a glass of wine and a coffee. Dinner for two, with drinks, later came to €24. Back to today - from the albergue in Vila Cha we had to make our way back down to the sea and then it was more boardwalk for about 5km. That took us into Vila de Conde where we spent a night in 2011 before heading inland to walk the traditional Camino Portugues. In 2011 we tried to g...

May 24, 2019 40km completed, 221km to go        Route Map We expected to walk 19km today and so we were on the road by 7:00am. It was a bright sunny morning but we needed the fleeces, heading into a strong northerly breeze.  We didn't actually see much of the sun for at least two kilometres as we were walking along a promenade in the shadow of modern apartment blocks (holiday apartments?) up to ten storeys high. Back on the boardwalk After the prom we were back on boardwalk, over the sand dunes, for a number of kilometres. Later we moved inland a little and walked on narrow cobbled roads for a long period before reaching the final stretch, a dirt track through a forest into Fão. We realised some distance out that our guidebook must have a different starting point from our albergue and the saving of 1.7km was very welcome although, at a push, we could have managed a few extra km. We arrived here at 1:25pm and went to check into the local youth ho...

May 25, 2019          61km completed, 201km to go           Route Map A bridge to cross on leaving Fão Today was supposed to be easier than yesterday but that was based on my assumption that we would not be climbing a hill until after Vigo. We started walking in warm sunshine at 7:40am,  having opted to forego breakfast which didn't start until 8:30. Early on we had to cross a long metal bridge built in the late 19th century. That took us to the outskirts of Esposende where we took time to have breakfast. A generous serving of fresh orange juice, a buttered roll and a coffee cost just €3.40 each. As we were about to leave the restaurant we hurriedly decided to order a couple of filled baguettes for lunch. That turned out to  be a mistake as we waited for at least 20 minutes before the baguettes were ready. When we eventually resumed walking we continued through the town before going back to the sea fron...

May 26, 2019 75km completed, 186km to go              Route Map At the church of Santiago We didn't cover a lot of ground today but it was hard going nevertheless. The day started with a long very steep climb to an important church named after Santiago. It is built on the site of what is thought to be the earliest church (dating from 862)  in Portugal dedicated to the Saint.  After that we entered a forest and for the next hour or so took our time along woodland paths, smelling the eucalyptus, listening to the birds and wishing Bom Caminho to the occasional passing peregrino. We had to take it easy to avoid tripping over tree roots or partially exposed stones. Woodland paths By the time we came out of the forest the sun was beating down on us and we had to continue taking it easy. The ground was fairly level although the frequent stretches of cobblestones were themselves uneven. We travelled through a couple of small towns and...

May 27, 2019 96km completed, 176km to go                Route Map We were on the road shortly after 7:00am and were pleased with ourselves when we easily covered the kilometre to Praça da Republica, from where the guidebook provided instructions. Unfortunately, with frequent yellow arrows, we didn't bother with the guide book until I became convinced we were heading away from the sea rather than towards it. When we stopped to check, a young local man insisted were heading in the right direction. A short while later, when I decided to check the guide book again, a woman on a balcony shouted down to reassure us that we were on the right track. We were doubly concerned as we were climbing a steep hill on a day when we hadn't expected any climbs. On walking down the other side of the hill we came across an official Camino information board with maps. It quickly became clear that we were on the "Coastal" route which stays fairly close to the co...