Day 6: Viana do Castelo - Vila Praia de Ancora (20.8km)

May 27, 2019
96km completed, 176km to go               Route Map

We were on the road shortly after 7:00am and were pleased with ourselves when we easily covered the kilometre to Praça da Republica, from where the guidebook provided instructions. Unfortunately, with frequent yellow arrows, we didn't bother with the guide book until I became convinced we were heading away from the sea rather than towards it. When we stopped to check, a young local man insisted were heading in the right direction. A short while later, when I decided to check the guide book again, a woman on a balcony shouted down to reassure us that we were on the right track. We were doubly concerned as we were climbing a steep hill on a day when we hadn't expected any climbs.

On walking down the other side of the hill we came across an official Camino information board with maps. It quickly became clear that we were on the "Coastal" route which stays fairly close to the coast. We wanted to be on the "Litoral", which clings to the coast. Google Maps showed that we would have to walk close to a kilometre, through a housing estate, to reach the promenade. At one stage we thought we found a short cut by going down a laneway. That turned out to be another mistake as we came across a locked gate and a high wire fence. There was no way through.

Three old windmills along the coastal path
The only saving grace was the cafe at the point where we entered the prom. We had walked 4.55km and badly needed breakfast. Back on track we had to battle a strong head wind for much of the day and there was nothing we could do about that. The prom gave way to boardwalk and then cobbles, gravel path and tarmac.

Leaving a narrow path for a walk across a beach
The coastal path is still being developed, and about 10km into the day we had to go inland which meant climbing another hill. We hadn't seen a yellow arrow since we reached the coast and this created some confusion now that we didn't have the sea on our immediate left. At this stage we were walking between trees and when presented with a choice of routes we decided to head back to the sea. It probably wasn't the right decision but it eventually brought us across a beach to the next stretch of boardwalk.

Four kilometres from our destination, the cafe that opens during the season was closed. That was a disappointment but we had to continue. For much of the next 2km we mostly on a well-shrltered narrow woodland path with the sound of the sea close to our left. We came out a short distance from a fairly plush restaurant. They didn't turn us away. We didn't want a big meal and they were quite happy to let us have a selection of starters - soup, salad, olives, bread and cheese, followed by coffee. It was all delicious and cost just €12.80 for the two of us.

The rickety boardwalk 
We were all set for the final 2km and needed to be. We had to negotiate a rickety boardwalk high on the dunes, with the wind blasting sand at us for most of the way. Towards the end there was a 400-metre break in the boardwalk forcing a trek across the dune to the next stretch which took us across a river and onto the prom. From there it was an easy stroll to our accommodation and we both felt in reasonably good shape after our longest walk to date.

There is no albergue in Vila Praia de Ancora so we are staying in a very pleasant seafront hostel, not as low cost as last night but good value. Once again we are in an ensuite room but it will be back to the albergues tomorrow. A nearby restaurant provided a peregrino menu at €8:50 per person. That covered soup, beef or fish served with rice and salad, coffee and a choice of wine, beer or soft drink. We had the fish and it was both substantial and tasty. Pauline isn't a great fan of rice and missed the chips which are included on virtually every peregrino menu.

We met fewer peregrinos today, so I assume some were on the "coastal" path. We chatted with an Australian woman and her two adult sons, also a woman from Holland. We greeted others but never found out where they were from. Many of the locals also acknowledge us, some with a Bom Dia, Bom Caminho or Boa Viagem. We even had it shouted from a car today while another driver sounded his horn and gave us a big wave.

Tomorrow we take a boat across a river estuary to Spain.

A last view of the Basilica (using a zoom lens) as we leave Viana do Castelo
One of a number of fortresses along this coast 
Looking towards Vila Praia de Ancora with still 2km to go

Contemplating the final trek across the dunes after walking 20km

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