Day 5: Castelo do Neivo - Viana do Castelo (13.6km)

May 26, 2019
75km completed, 186km to go              Route Map

At the church of Santiago
We didn't cover a lot of ground today but it was hard going nevertheless. The day started with a long very steep climb to an important church named after Santiago. It is built on the site of what is thought to be the earliest church (dating from 862)  in Portugal dedicated to the Saint.  After that we entered a forest and for the next hour or so took our time along woodland paths, smelling the eucalyptus, listening to the birds and wishing Bom Caminho to the occasional passing peregrino. We had to take it easy to avoid tripping over tree roots or partially exposed stones.

Woodland paths
By the time we came out of the forest the sun was beating down on us and we had to continue taking it easy. The ground was fairly level although the frequent stretches of cobblestones were themselves uneven. We travelled through a couple of small towns and met up briefly with a young brother and sister from Co. Offaly. They were the first Irish peregrinos we had come across since wishing Bom Caminho to the four who traveled on the same plane as us to Porto.

The bridge into Viana de Castelo with the Basilica on the hill in the background
We had about 4km to do when we came to the final hill of the day. The guide book described it as long and steep and we wouldn't argue.  We eventually reached the top, rested over a picnic lunch and headed down towards Viana do Castelo. That turned out to be a long trek. When we thought it was just a matter of crossing the bridge to our albergue, Google maps showed that we had 1.9km to do. We weren't as close to the bridge as we had thought and had to make a long climb up to it, as the pedestrian and road bridge is built on top of a rail bridge. When we were eventually opposite our albergue we found that we would have to cross the walled off railway track A local woman saw us looking bewildered and pointed us to an underpass less than 100 metres away.

In the albergue we filled in the necessary forms, were charged a little more than expected and whisked off upstairs to be shown into a well-furnished twin-bed en suite room. Once again age brought its privileges. Where else would you pay €25 for a two-bed room with real sheets, blankets and towels - the sleeping bag remains in the backpack tonight.

The guidebook told us to visit the Basilica of Santa Luzia which is built at the top of a steep hill overlooking the town.  That meant another walk of 650 metres to the funicular railway which links the Basilica with the town. It was worth it as both the Basilica and the views from it are impressive.

We finished the day with a fine meal in a nearby restaurant. We didn't see any mention of "menu peregrino" in this town but the extra cost was well worth it on this occasion and the meal befitted the accommodation we are enjoying.

Way marks at the the edge of the forest - blue for Fatima, yellow for Santiago

Igreja de São Tiago, Anha
Basilica de Santa Luzia


Interior of the Basilica
Looking south from the Basilica
Looking south east from the Basilica - see the length of the bridge we had to cross


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