Day 9: Viladesuso – A Ramallosa (21.1km)


May 30, 2019
148km completed, 125km to go
We left at 7:10am as we were expecting a very warm day and a longer walk than usual. The yellow arrows directed us along minor roads above and below the main road, making the walk longer but much more pleasant. The wind, which had eased considerably yesterday, had died down completely today and the sea was noticeably calmer.
Early on we noticed about four men jump from a small boat onto a rock, a short distance from the shore. The boat then moored nearby while the men moved about the rock. We came across similar operations along this stretch of coast. Our guess is that the men were collecting some type of shellfish while the rocks were exposed at low tide. (Research since returning to Ireland indicates they were collecting Gooseneck Barnacles, a very expensive delicacy to be found in upmarket restaurants).
Collecting Gooseneck Barnacles

We planned to breakfast in a restaurant at a campsite after 4.5km and were not disappointed. At the same time we ordered bocadillos for a picnic lunch. Soon after we found ourselves spending most of our time on the cycle track beside the a road and looking ahead we thought there was no option but to round a major headland via the highway. We were surprised then, when numerous 
We followed the road past the distant lighthouse
yellow arrows urged us to turn right. It seemed to us that this was likely to require a severe climb so we stayed on the road. Over the next couple of hours we walked alongside the highway beside the sea. We were passed by a number of other peregrinos who obviously thought that level ground was preferable when the temperature was in the mid-twenties. One who did take the hilly route later told us that it was a mistake. 
We first met Joanna from Berlin in Guarda and again in Viladesuso. Our paths crossed a couple of times during the day so we feel we know her quite well now.
Coming into Baiona we chatted to a Korean man for a time and he eventually wanted to know our age. That seemed to impress him and he asked for permission to take our photo.
A small section of the fortress at Baiona
Baiona turned out to be a beautiful town, with an impressive fortress, enclosing a Parador hotel, on a peninsula. We stopped long enough to take a few photographs, have our credencials stamped at the tourist office and eat our picnic lunch. We had another 3km to go, so no time for any real sightseeing.
We walked along the prom in silence and learned later that we were both figuring out how we could return to get a proper look. After leaving the prom we had to take a left turn. A couple, roughly our own age, were walking towards us and the man asked in English if we were walking the Camino. It turned out that Cathal and Máire from Dublin had walked the Camino from Baiona last year but didn't have time to savour the town, and committed to come back. This was their promised return and they were trying find the actual Camino (yellow arrows were scarce in Baiona) so walked with us for spell. The four of us were engrossed in conversation and reached the end of a small peninsula before we realised we had missed a turn.
We eventually reached our albergue, a beautiful 17th century seminary. Once again we were given our own room with sheets, bedspread and towels - it wasn't en suite on this occasion. There ahead of us was our friend Liz. She had flown in from England to join us for the remainder of the walk.

The albergue in A Ramellosa

Interioer of the albergue in A Ramellosa

At the campsite where we had breakfast

A Ramellosa - Tiles on side wall of church depicting the building of the nearby bridge (below)

A Ramellosa - 13th century bridge



Comments

Post a Comment

Popular posts from this blog

Day 1: Matosinhos to Vila Cha (16.25km)

Image
May 22, 2019 16.25km completed - 245km  to go       Route Map We have completed our first day, covering 16.25km in perfec t walking conditions - hazy sunshine and a light sea breeze. En route we met many other pilgrims from various parts of the world, including a woman from Kilmacolm, about eight miles from where I was born. She left Scotland about the same time as I did and has spent her life on Vancouver Island. We are in a lovely albergue in Vila Cha but when we arrived there was only one lower bunk left. The hospitalero took pity on us and opened up a second dormitory and we are in here on our own - so far. We are planning an even shorter day tomorrow but then the pressure will increase as have to do 262km in 15 days. In 2011 we did it in 12 days over a slightly different route. Typical section of boardwalk The albergue at Vila Cha
Read more

Day 2: Vila Cha to Póvoa de Varzim (11.9km)

Image
May 23, 2019 28km completed - 234km to go    Route Map As stages go on the Camino, just under 12km is a leisurely stroll and we treated it like that, taking some five hours to reach the albergue in Póvoa de Varzim. We arrived at 12:45. We didn't see very much of the sun, which again made for pleasant walking conditions. I had no sooner posted yesterday's update before two German peregrinas joined us in our dormitory. By the time we were going to sleep, ten of the twelve bunks were taken and there were at least six people sleeping in the outer dormitory. We visited the nearby bar in the afternoon and paid €1:90 for a glass of wine and a coffee. Dinner for two, with drinks, later came to €24. Back to today - from the albergue in Vila Cha we had to make our way back down to the sea and then it was more boardwalk for about 5km. That took us into Vila de Conde where we spent a night in 2011 before heading inland to walk the traditional Camino Portugues. In 2011 we tried to g...
Read more

Day 3: Póvoa de Varzim - Fão (17.3km)

Image
May 24, 2019 40km completed, 221km to go        Route Map We expected to walk 19km today and so we were on the road by 7:00am. It was a bright sunny morning but we needed the fleeces, heading into a strong northerly breeze.  We didn't actually see much of the sun for at least two kilometres as we were walking along a promenade in the shadow of modern apartment blocks (holiday apartments?) up to ten storeys high. Back on the boardwalk After the prom we were back on boardwalk, over the sand dunes, for a number of kilometres. Later we moved inland a little and walked on narrow cobbled roads for a long period before reaching the final stretch, a dirt track through a forest into Fão. We realised some distance out that our guidebook must have a different starting point from our albergue and the saving of 1.7km was very welcome although, at a push, we could have managed a few extra km. We arrived here at 1:25pm and went to check into the local youth ho...
Read more