Day 7: Vila Praia de Ancora - A Guarda (15.1km)


May 28, 2019
110km completed, 161km to go       Route Map

We are now in Spain, Galicia to be exact. We walked some 106km through north eastern Portugal and thoroughly enjoyed it.
Looking back at the harbour and beach at Vila Praia de Ancora
This morning we were able to have coffee and toast at a bar next to our hostel and that set us up nicely for the road. It was a clear, sunny morning but we still faced into a strong wind for the first 5km or so. All that time we were on some type of seaside walkway until we reached the small town of Molado. At the start of the town a yellow arrow would have taken us under a railway bridge away from the sea. Today we decided to ignore the arrow and follow our guide book. We did so again at the other end of the town, when the arrows pointed right and the book said KSO (keep straight on).
Forest trail after Molado
It was a good decision as we followed a most attractive forest trail for at least two kilometres. Yesterday's forest track was narrow, the trees relatively small and the undergrowth dense. Today it was a wide trail through well-spaced majestic pine trees and light undergrowth. We eventually came out onto a boardwalk alongside the estuary and could see the town of Caminha in the distance. This was the town from which we would take the ferry across to Spain. It took us about 45 minutes, along the boardwalk and then the path on top of sea wall to reach the ferry terminal. We chatted briefly to a peregrina from Krakow on the way and later met up with her at the albergue.
The 45-minute seaside walk into Caminha
Our timing for the ferry, which seemed to operate every hour, was impeccable. As soon as we purchased our tickets boarding started and we set sail a short time later. I counted some 25 peregrinos on the ferry, which was similar to, if a little smaller than, the Killimer and Foyle ferries. It was a fifteen minute crossing.
The guide book said that we could follow the yellow arrows up a steep hill or stick to the coast and walk an additional 3km. This time we chose the arrows, not so much to reduce the mileage as to avoid the strong wind. Our option, although steep to start with, took us through a long stretch of eucalyptus forest.
We arrived at our albergue at 14:10 Spanish time, to find a notice saying that it would open at 16:00. We went off to get something to eat and when we returned at 15:20 we were eighth and ninth in line for a bed. That ensured lower bunks.
A Guarda is a hilly town and we seemed to be near the the top. A walk down to the harbour was one thing, but the climb back up was totally different; I used a stairway for part of the return journey. Location, then, was all important when it came to choosing a restaurant for dinner. The nearest looked like a working man's bar and didn't offer a peregrino menu but, as it turned, it more than met our needs. Three tapas including a serving of chips, along with the bread and cheese that arrived at the table, provided a very substantial meal at a modest price.
Back in the albergue I decided to adjourn to the kitchen to write my blog. I didn't make much progress, as I soon got chatting to Gerry from Dublin and a young woman from Venice. Before we knew it, it was past time for bed.
Today's distance travelled of 15.11km, includes 1.42km on the ferry across the Minho estuary. We only walked 13:69km.

Still in Portugal - wayside church - shelter at front could be useful in Ireland for after Mass chats when raining

Spain as seen from Portugal - we had been looking at this hill for more than a day  before we could be sure it was Spain

Island fort guarding the Minho estuary
Trekking through s Spanish eucalyptus forest



Harbour at A Guarda

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